The Wild Coast of Vancouver Island

Travel time: August / September 2006  |  by Jörg Knorr

New Friends

On the next evening I get to know Gary and Anna. They already pitched their tent near the forrest, a site that looks inviting to me too. The two of them return from a daytrip to the Bunsby Islands in the evening. I invite them for a whiskey and we spend the evening in front of my tent until it darkness settles in. A real nice evening. One out of many. Before I paddle on the next day, Anna and Gary invite me over to their house on Saltspring Island, which lies on my way.

Gary & Anna

Gary & Anna

In Kyuquot and Friendly Cove I visit the lightkeepers and the little church, in which one can find a couple totem poles. After that I drop at Sanford Williams' house, a local master carver, who is one of the natives.

Sanford Williams (Mastercarver)

Sanford Williams (Mastercarver)

Later on I will see some of his wooden masks in gallery in Tofino, which cost a couple thousand dollars. He sits in his shop and carves a wooden birdhead, while the radio plays american countrymusic. Besides that he also wants to finish a totem pole, which lies underneath a tarp near the shop.
After I pitched my tent I make my way to a little creek nearby to fill up my drinking water. I'm singing out loud the whole way, because I found bear traces again. Quite a strange feeling to crouch through the wild, which is darkened by trees, ready for anything to cross my path. I hear noises and rather sing a little louder, just to make sure...
The coast of Nootka Point until Estevan point does not offer too many possibilities to go on land with the westwind blowing.

Eastevan Point

Eastevan Point

I have to wait 16 miles for my next break. About time, when I listen to my bladder.
After a night on flores Island I settle down on a little island, 5 minutes from Tofino. Time to shop in Tofino. Before I loot the grocery store, I fill myself up with coffee, cake and pizza. Great!
The next day Kathy and Iain (the keepers of Lennart Island) invite me to spend the night in their guest house, after an ultrashortpaddle destination. I'm being taken care of and Iain proudly shows me the lighthouse and what else he does in his spare time. Besides a beautiful canoe, he also built a great rowboat. Finest handcraft. Nearly completely made from driftwood he found at the beach. Sitting in the kitchen Iain tells me about the lighthouses he and his wife worked in. Time goes by quickly and I once again enjoy the Canadian's hospitality. I promise Iain to send a postcard from flensburg. He has no internet connection.

Lannard Island

Lannard Island

Iain

Iain

© Jörg Knorr, 2006
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The trip
 
Description:
Rounding Americas biggest Pacific Island in a kayak. Breath-taking wild, seeing whales from a fascinating distance and meeting great people. That is what expects the traveller here. A intense way of experiencing nature.
Details:
Start of journey: Aug 06, 2006
Duration: 7 weeks
End of journey: Sep 20, 2006
Travelled countries: Canada
The Author
 
Jörg Knorr is an active author on break-fresh-ground. since 20 years.
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